WORDS: LAUREN EZEKIEL
Take your client on a hair journey
It’s all about the preparation for Zoe Rees, owner of Bliss Hair Therapy, educator and digital ambassador for Eleven Australia UK: “I put a plan in place from day one. Some brides may be looking to get professional colour for the first time, and you may also have to work with previously box dyed hair,” she explains. “Take swatches of your client’s hair during the first consultation and ask them to bring photos of how they would like their hair colour to look on the big day. This allows you to manage their hair expectations.” However, when it comes to making drastic colour changes Revlon Professional global ambassador, Mark Leeson is always hesitant. “We advise all our clients not to deviate too much away from their regular colour or style. Major changes are a no-go unless it is planned well in advance.”
According to the team at Manic Panic, as the expert you need to point out if the colour is plausible for the individual. “Most clients come armed with images -nine times out of ten they will need to make some sort of compromise. Be sure to have alternatives at hand when going into a consultation and discuss carefully so the bride has a full understanding.”
By giving alternative options, the client is much more prepared for the final outcome. Charlotte Rowley, Redken Advocate and owner of Fusion Hair & Beauty, says the key is transparency and education – believing it's often better to under promise and over deliver.
“If the client understands the limitations and what goes into the colour process then they are aware of what can be achieved during the appointment,” says Charlotte. “For example, if time isn’t on your side, I would advise a subtle addition to their existing colour to maintain the condition and achieve something they will be happy with.”
Although it is positive to have With wedding season soon upon us -after nearly two years of covid postponements -salons look set to experience the busiest pre-nuptial preparation ever. Colour is often a key focus for members of a wedding party, but how can you manage client’s expectation and achieve pictureperfect results? HJ spoke to top colour specialists for their tips visuals, Victoria Panting, Salon Success educator, says it’s worth being mindful it may not be the hair colour, but the finished photo that appeals. “A little tip I use is to ask my brides to place their thumb over the face on the photo and make sure it’s the colour they love and not the overall image -as it’s easy to get drawn into enjoying the overall look.”
Work the colour with the styling
Try not to treat the hair colour as a single entity, instead ask the bride or guest about how they envisage the final look. “We consider the outfit, the head dress and veil and then build a picture of the client’s individual style,” says Mark. “We take this all into account when deciding on the colour to use as we want to ensure we create their ultimate look.”
Talking through the finished look can also have an effect on the colour techniques you chose to use. “If the bride or member of the bridal party is planning a hair up, then a balayage technique is ideal as you’ll get to see pockets of depth coming through making the style more defined,” says Michael Convey, OSMO global ambassador. "A solid colour works well for half up/half down styles when definition is not key. A chignon works well with highlights so the detail really pops.”
Ensure the hair health is optimum
Getting the timing right is so important, “We always try to embark on a treatment journey six weeks before the big day as this really helps in promoting beautiful healthy hair,” says Mark. This allows you to apply any necessary treatments to the hair before applying colour and make any tweaks requested before the big day. It also gives time if the client has any old box colour that may need working through.
“You need to work together, and the bride should be treating their hair at home to deep conditioning treatments like the OSMO Chromoplex regime that it strengthens and restores the hair with its Fibre Bond Technology,” says Michael Convey, OSMO global ambassador. “Regular use also further improves the condition of the hair, whilst helping to prevent future damage, so is an ideal treatment for brides with old box dye.”
To ensure colour looks its best on the day encourage your client to have a salon appointment the day before. “Book a refresh toner and blow-dry the day before the wedding,” recommends Zoe. “This means colour is glossy and healthy – without looking faded or brassy. Plus, by adding this toner and blow-dry service the day before means their hair is perfectly prepped with the right foundation ready for you to style in the morning.”
Dealing with old box colour
“When working with any hair that has been previously coloured and you don't know the history, it is imperative to do a strand test before doing any further colouring,” says Brendan Palmer, NAK Educator UK. “This will allow you to assess what is possible and formulate a colour process that will have successful results.
“INSTEAD OF DOING GENERIC HIGHLIGHTS OR BALAYAGE, COMBINE BOTH TO ADD DEFINITION. SOFT BABY LIGHTS THROUGH THE BACK WITH MORE OF A MONEY PIECE AT THE FRONT -REALLY POPS IN A PHOTOGRAPH”
John Spanton, Goldwell master colourist and creative director at Angelo Seminara Hair Salon agrees but also stresses the pitfalls of athome applications, “A home colour isn’t likely to be applied as evenly as a professional one, therefore ensure you strand test from various areas of the hair -it’s good to understand what you are dealing with before you jump in! By taking multiple strands and showing the client how the colour looks on the different areas can make it easier when choosing the options available.”
Mix up the techniques
“Considering how the colour is going to look on camera is key,” says ASP ambassador Sheree Thompson. “For me, it's all about reflection and the correct colour placement. I particularly love the foilayage technique, with a soft root shadow and face framing to create a beautiful balance of tones, while keeping the hair looking healthy.” When it comes to placement Brooke Evan, at BE Ironbridge and Alfaparf ambassador, suggests using a combination of techniques. “Instead of doing generic highlights or balayage, combine both to add definition. Soft baby lights through the back with more of a money piece at the front -really pops in a photograph.”
For Adam Reed, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris editorial ambassador it’s all about the French Balayage, “This technique blends colour naturally from roots to ends -it can be dialled up or down so its personalised depending on the desired finish. The Parisians are known for graceful, easy-looking style and this technique reflects that as it offers luminous, healthy-looking and completely effortless looking results. Yet it takes a huge skill to blend the colour this seamlessly, something only achievable in salon wi th a professional.”
Focus on the front
“Creating colour that looks good in photos, means creating colour that looks good to the naked eye too,” explains Dan Spiller, JOICO colour ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “All over colour can appear dull when photographed, adding in different tones helps it pop. Add caramel slices through brunette shades or work with fine highlights to create depth on blondes.”
This is why money pieces have also become a popular trend, “I am seeing many different variations of the money piece as it suits everyone,” explains Lisa Carter, The Crowning Stylist for Yellow by Alfaparf.“It's perfect for brides who want to add a pop of light around their face to flatter their updo, but don't want the upkeep or don't have the budget for full highlights.”
Tips for the bridal party
Often when it comes the bridal party there may not be the same level of planning as a bride. This can often lead to a one-off appointment before the big day. Victoria recommends subtle face framing in these scenarios. “If you're on a tight schedule, add some brightness to the face and you have the option to tone it afterwards to achieve the ideal colour palette. Remember with face framing you can leave roots, allowing the eye to be drawn to the lighter areas on the face.” With wedding hair it's all about flattering and bespoke placement and making the guest feel like a VIP.