Hairdressers Journal
Hairdressers Journal


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face to face

”Before starting to talk about face shapes we need to understand how to design styles to suit the person,” explains Robert Masciave from Metropolis salon. “While studying as a visagiste I learned that facial features on women are pronounced by the jawline and cheekbones,” he says. “I always try to bring out the cheekbones and jawline – we can merge or modify the geometry of the hair and the geometry of the facial features to harmonise the two.” 

Round face shapes typically feature a similar length and width as well as prominent, rounded cheeks.

What hairstyles suit a circle face shape?

Round faces benefit from any cut that brings shape and angle to the bone structure,” says Desmond Murray at Atherton Cox. “Think short, angular bobs, rock chick layers and side-fringes that break up the softness of the face,” he says.

Thomas Marrington at Guy Kremer suggests a length that hits the shoulders or just below the jawline to flatter and elongate the face. He says: “Style with a slightly off-centre parting and add in some choppy layers to give the hair more texture and body.”

Alternatively, Joseph Koniak at Eleven Mayfair Hair recommends a centre parting to create a symmetrical appearance. However, he adds: “You can use the parting to give volume and create the look of an oval shape when moving the parting to the left or right.”

“An arced fringe will suit a rounder face, coupled with longer layered hair,” adds Andrew Hall at Idlewild Hair. “If going for a shorter look, building the weight up on the occipital bone balances a fuller face shape and a long bob with movement is ideal.”

A square-shaped face features a broad forehead, wide cheek bones and a strong jawline

DESMOND MURRAY 

What hairstyles suit a square face shape? 

“For a look that complements bone structure consider a side parted style, which will offset the squareness,” explains Danilo Giangreco at Danilo Hair Boutique. “Long and airy layers can also be flattering and will help to disguise the angles of the face. If the client likes a cropped length consider a short, layered bob. But remember to add a side-swept fringe as it will draw attention to the cheekbones instead of the jawline,” he points out. 

“Square-shaped strong jawline, so it’s up to you whether you want to celebrate or soften this,” adds Desmond Murray at Atherton Cox. “Long and wavy styles are great for softening and lengthening a short, angular face while a choppy bob is ideal for celebrating this enviable bone structure.”

Andrew Hall at Idlewild Hair recommends playing with weight. “Build the weight out on top to balance the jawline, and make sure any fringe is light and soft,” he says. “A bob faces often feature a very shape should be fuller and rest between the jaw and neckline and partings should be on the side.”

Oval shaped faces, thanks to their well-balanced appearance, can suit a wide variety of hairstyles.

What styles suit an oval face shape? 

“For oval-faced ladies who like a medium length, a blunt bob or lob with subtle layers will look particularly chic,” says Danilo. “If the client prefers long hair, opt for minimal layers or style the hair with waves or curls to keep it from dragging down the face.” 

“Most partings will suit this face shape,” points out Joseph. “An oval face gives you the luxury of moving the parting around as much as you like. Generally partings look great from the rise of an eyebrow, so whether you’re going from straight back to the crown or straight back from one side to the other to conceal the parting line you should get a beautiful look.”

Desmond says those with oval shapes can experiment with more daring styles due to the oval’s harmonised features. “Oval-shaped faces are lucky as they can pull off pretty much any style due to their well-balanced proportions,” he says. “This is a great excuse to go for some more daring styles such as a punky crop or a long one-length 1970s-style cut.”

Much like square-shaped faces, rectangular faces can appear sharp and tend to have a sharp jaw and forehead.

What styles suit a rectangle face shape? 

“If a client has a rectangular face you should work to soften the appearance of their jaw and forehead without further elongating the face,” suggests Danilo.

“A soft layered cut, for example, can disguise the corners of the face. However you should be careful to avoid overly long styles, which can further elongate the appearance,” he adds. “If you do opt for a long length try styling the client’s hair with a wavy blow-dry, which will add horizontal volume and soften the angles of the face. If your client wants an updo, choose soft shapes.”

Similarly, when it comes to fringes Danilo suggests soft, rounded ones and curtain fringes over square styles or blunt cut options.

Desmond adds: “Soft layers will work just as well on rectangle-shaped faces while a rounded fringe can help reduce the appearance of face length.”

If a client has a heart-shaped face, their bone structure will feature a broad forehead and cheekbones with a narrow jawline and chin.

What styles suit a heart face shape? 

“A long side-swept cut will complement the features beautifully while drawing eyes down to the bottom of the face,” advises Danilo.

“You can also pair this cut with waves or curls starting below the ear to even out the angled jaw. Alternatively, a side-parted pixie cut with textured ends can also appear gorgeous on a heart face shape, as can a medium length bob, which will ensure fullness around the jaw.”

Karoliina Saunders at Karoliina Saunders recommends avoiding straight across blunt fringes as this will widen the forehead. She says: “Focus on a longer length around the back and behind the ears to create a wider shape for the bottom part of the face.”

Andrew adds: “For bob shapes keep it graphic with clean, sharp lines and with longer shapes a fuller fringe and central parting will flatter this shape.”

Side partings also work well for heart shapes, says Joesph. “A low or medium parting from the rise of the eyebrow, the corner of the eyebrow, or start of the eyebrow are the most flattering.”

Diamond is an angular face shape that features a narrow forehead and jawline with cheekbones at the widest point of the face.

What styles suit a diamond face shape?

“Diamond-shaped faces are widest at the cheekbones so can benefit from a cut that is fuller around the jawline such as an angular bob or a shoulder-length cut with layers that begin around the chin,” says Desmond.

“Diagonal side partings are best,” adds Karoliina. “Opt for styles with a longer length on top to create height on the curvature of the head, preferably with some length showing from behind the ears.”

“A quirky pixie cut will accentuate the prominent angles of a diamond face shape, whilst a side-swept parting will soften the look,” says Daisy Andrews at Guy Kremer, Winchester.

“For a soft look, consider a medium or long layered haircut worn with tousled waves and a deep side parting,” says Danilo. “If you wish to enhance the appearance of the jaw on the other hand, a chin-length bob will work best. Also, don’t forget to try a pulled back ponytail for an editorial look that will really show off the cheekbones.”

This article appears in the December 2020 Issue of Hairdressers Journal

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This article appears in the December 2020 Issue of Hairdressers Journal