POST-SUMMER GLOW UP

The ultimate guide to give your client’s their best post-summer glow up, ever

HAIR: ANDY SMITH AND PADDY MCDOUGALL

It’s been a long hot summer, and while clients may have enjoyed soaking up the rays, cool downs in the pool, and paddling in the sea, it’s highly possible their hair is feeling the after-effects. As clients return to the salon, you may find yourself faced with a series of postsummer panic appointments, as their pre-holiday hair colour is no longer glowing.

But here, the experts reveal how they address summer damage on client’s hair colour.

Post-Summer Porosity

“Many of the elements we encounter during the summer, can directly cause hair colour to react. Heat will cause the hair to expand, opening the cuticle and causing colour to fade,” says Megan Abbott at Manic Panic. It’s all about the damage to hair porosity, which in turn leads to the destruction of hair colour. “The sun, sea and chlorine dehydrate the hair just as much as it dehydrates the body. This is when the hair’s porosity levels increase. When porosity levels are elevated, it can cause unexpected colour, causing uneven and patchy outcomes,” says Claire Chell, Avlon and UBERLISS creative. “UVB impacts the cuticle which results in protein loss, while UVA penetrates deeper and causes colour change and pigment degradation, which also leads to dryness and brassy results,” explains Kelly Shone-Adams, OSMO technical advisor.

Post-Summer Colour Application

When faced with welcoming clients back into the salon, it’s important to be aware of how summer damage can affect applying colour to the hair. It’s key that for optimum hair colour results, a healthy and clean base is needed, so it’s essential to assess client’s hair before undertaking any colour applications. “When dealing with damaged hair, coverage is never 100% even,” says Federico Damiani, Pulp Riot artist. “This is because colour penetrates in different ways when cuticles expand. It could absorb the colour or reject it completely.” Therefore, nurturing damaged hair is important to remember before going ahead with any colour application. “A porosity test can really help assess the situation, as well as a prepigmentation service,” says Danilo Giangreco, Revlon Professional creative artist. Consequently, applying semi or demi-permanent colours can also be best. Sheree Thompson, ASP global ambassador recommends: “Opting for low-level lightening along with super shiny gloss colours, can help maintain optimum hair health.”

Post-Summer Colour Corrections

“Failure to protect the hair will result in it becoming dry and fragile, with colour becoming much harder to absorb, and taking longer to reach the hair goal of the client,” says Safy Burton, Goldwell master colourist. So, just how can you ensure you are performing post-summer colour corrections using the safest techniques for your clients? “Conducting a strand test is a simple way to see how colour takes to the hair and will determine the level of colour and lift you can achieve,” says Dan Spiller, JOICO colour ambassador. Likewise, Kelly advises a sink test to determine the condition of the hair. “You drop four strands of hair into water to see if the hair floats or sinks. If the strands float, the hair is healthy, but if it sinks, the hair is damaged.”

“There’s always a fine balance between giving clients their desired result and preserving hair integrity,” says Danilo. Take a leaf out of NAK’s book: “If dealing with severely damaged hair, it’s best to use the lowest oxidants and gentlest colour,” says Brendan Palmer, NAK hair educator. Or to help combat dull and flat tones, Shu-Lan Cheung, FFØR Haircare technical educator recommends “adding warmth to the damaged areas as it helps stabilise the tone and shine in both warm and cool results”.

Post-Summer, Pre-Colour Services

Before partaking in any colour application on summer damaged hair, it’s important to get the hair to its best possible health. Annabelle Arnold, ELEVEN Australia educator, stresses: “If we don’t pre-treat hair accordingly, we could cause further damage to the hair.” When lightening hair, Federico says, “The best solution is to avoid stress and remove any excess metals to avoid a chemical reaction between metals and bleach.”

Shu-Lan emphasises the services to offer clients, “Professional hair treatments, along with good, at-home haircare advice and a decent trim will give client’s hair the kick-start it needs for post-summer colour application.”

Georgia Bell of Society Hair, Denman ambassador, says, “We love and recommend INNOluxe treatments to prepare for colour work to look even and impactful.” Subsequently, Safy suggests, “In order to keep the colour vibrant and fresh, I recommend using a glossing service and root touch up to promote vibrancy all while keeping the condition of the hair as healthy as possible.” And for OSMO, colour treatments are included in their colour services pricing menu. “All colours include the OSMO Chromoplex 3-step in-salon treatment. It enables the strengthening and restructuring of hair bonds throughout the colour or lightening process; a must for any hair colouring and especially so for damaged coloured hair,” says Kelly.

GOLDWELL COLORANCE GLOSS TONES

ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS

Get the lowdown from colour connoisseurs.

“Communication is key. Thorough consultations enable you to understand the level of damage and gauge limitations with what you’re able to achieve. Don’t set yourself up to fail by promising something you cannot deliver.”

“When dealing with sun damaged hair, always opt for low level lightening along with super shiny gloss colours to maintain optimum hair health. ASP colours contain Shea butter and argan oil – the best ingredients for healthy strong hair”

“Keep in mind the condition of the hair you are working with. Make sure to not compromise any of the damaged hair by avoiding colour overlapping and only apply colour to the root area. Consultation is key with colour service.”

“Make a plan when colour correcting damaged hair. The colour may not be exactly where your client wants it to be on the first visit. Explain this and book a series of appointments with hair repair treatments in between.”

Post-Summer Aftercare Advice

That post-summer glow up can, however, take time. So, aftercare services and at-home advice to give your clients is paramount. Dan explains aftercare and maintenance is just as vital as the colour service itself. “A bespoke plan for every client should be put in place to ensure their hair always looks fantastic. Service wise, offering a glossing service is a great way to add vibrancy and a gorgeous shine to the hair between appointments and can bring the colour back to life.” Likewise, Tim Scott-Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional UK ambassador, agrees: “Aftercare services including a toning appointment, or a gloss treatment can keep on top of the colour.” But it’s equally important that your client knows which products to use and how to apply them, to get the best possible results. “Hydrating shampoos and masks are a must,” says Federico, “but PH balancing products are best.” Danilo advises sulphate free: “Revlon Re/ start colour range, especially the sulphate free shampoo and colour protective mist really helps to prolong colour services, as well as a colour recharge service between.” Fay Stothard, Balmain Hair UK educator, suggests recommending a leave-in conditioning spray, “Balmain Hair Leave-in Conditioning Spray and Moisturising Argan Elixir helps restore hairs cuticle and reconstructs the natural hair fibres.” And for blondes, it can be especially difficult to maintain the healthy glow. Which is why Shu-Lan proposes: “For clients with bleached blonde hair, recommending a silver shampoo and conditioner will neutralise yellow, brassy tones and keep hair looking bright, hydrated, and healthy.” Life’s little changes can also really help make a difference. Lucie Luella, Crazy Color ambassador, suggests advising clients to switch to a microfibre towel. “Switching from a normal towel to a microfibre towel when drying hair, helps to protect the cuticle without roughing it up, which can also be perfect for curly haired clients.”

The bottom line is: damage control. Stay calm when faced with your client’s post-holiday-hair panic, assess all aspects, care for the hair, keep your clients updated, and carry out the necessary treatments, and your client’s will leave the salon with a colour-popping post-summer glow up.