#TRENDING

Red shades have always been a hot choice for AW, however this year the trend seems to be stepping it up

SIOBHAN HAUG

With celebrities such as Kendall Jenner and Phoebe Dynevor moving to the red side, their millions of followers are set to follow suit. Have you found clients coming in with a screenshot of their favourite redhead in hand? Or, as Poppy Johnson, ambassador for Directions Hair Colour, notes, “My clients are bringing TikTok videos for reference now”.

However, any colourist knows that colours are not ‘one shade suits all’, and it is your job to guide your client towards the best colour for their skin tone whilst meeting their expectations.

Shade Selection 101

Pale skin with cool undertones and red hair are a natural combination, however medium to dark skin tones with warm undertones can also make this colour work for them by opting for a bold, more fiery shade. However, as Danilo Giangreco, Revlon Professional creative artist, notes: “It’s also quite typical for natural redheads with fair skin to have warm undertones, not cool. In that case, opting for a copper, instead of red, is a very flattering choice.”

There are, of course, always exceptions to the rules, with Terry Longden, Matrix artist ambassador, explaining: "Vibrant shades can also work well for pale complexions - if your goal is to appear even paler."

Meanwhile, Heffy Wheeler, Pulp Riot artist, shares: "Copper can be for everybody depending on how you do it - you can put copper on the ends so it’s not next to their skin."

Easy Does It

Whilst some clients will be ready to dive into the deep end, when it comes to embracing this season's 'it' colour, reds certainly aren't for everyone.

"As we approach autumn, we're finding a lot of clients come back from holiday with sun-lightened hair and a tan which is fading – so they want more warmth. This is the perfect time to refresh the tone with a honey or peach balayage rather than a lighter blonde; add a few pieces round the face, or through the top, for a softer copper tone. This way they are introduced to copper without having to commit to a full head," shares Paul Dennison for L’Oréal Professionnel.

Siobhan Jones, L’Oréal Professionnel artist, also offers an alternative to global colour, sharing the technique 'Fused Tone', which is all about intertwining cool and warm tones throughout one overall hair colour. She says: "The idea is that a copper, which typically would be named a warm colour, would not only have ribbons of warm, golden hues, but it would also be fused with cooler mahogany tones. The combination of warm and cool tones means the end result is more muted and dustier - and most importantly, it is a lot more accessible for both cool and warm skin tones."

Knowing your clients’ colour preferences is key, especially when it comes to trying out a whole new shade together. Ellen Murtath, Vish Ambassador, explains: “Since we began using Vish to manage our colour, it’s become so easy to experiment with formulas as I can compare how we evolved my client’s colour last year with what we will do this A/W. She wants this year’s trend towards copper? No problem. I’ll know the precise measurements I can expect to use and how bright she likes it, ensuring we keep her look fresh and ontrend, without edging into shades she’s uncomfortable with.”

SIOBHAN HAUG

Can’t Stand The Heat?

Red isn’t the only colour that’s hotting up as the weather cools down – this year, trend colours for darker skin tones are warm coco browns and sun kissed golds, whilst for fair skin, warm spun gold is popular, moving away from ashy tones, shares Tracey Ann Smith, ASP global ambassador.

Vibrant reds and rich copper tones may be stealing the spotlight this season, but there's plenty of other colours still high in demand. If your clients want to stay on trend whilst steering away from these colours, the key is to keep to warm tones.

“WARM TONES OFTEN APPEAR MORE NATURAL, BRINGING HAIR HEALTH TO THE FOREFRONT THIS SEASON, AS THESE HUES TEND TO REFLECT MORE LIGHT, HELPING WITH THE APPEARANCE OF SHINE.”

"Ash blonde is dead," admits Jack Howard, co-creator of the Jack Howard by Denman Precision Colouring Kit, whilst Jordanna Cobella, Wella top artist UK, explains: "After periods of uncertainty people tend to embrace warmer, richer tones that are nourishing and optimistic. We're seeing this trend transfer across to hair, with clients embracing warm golden honeycomb tones postpandemic."

Warm tones often appear more natural, bringing hair health to the forefront this season, as these hues tend to reflect more light, helping with the appearance of shine. As such, Robert Eaton, Wella UK & Ireland technical director, predicts: "A big trend will be super glossy hair. Expect golden glosses, caramels and slightly warmer tones that are highly polished."