TEXTURE TALKS

Language and terminology is crucial when it comes to talking Afro and textured hair, HJ explores the new rules

Keeping a finger on the pulse of language updates and nuances are crucial to being an inclusive and professional expert stylist. Just think how much colour technology has evolved in the last decade. So too have the ways we approach Afro hair.

What’s in a name?

We asked the experts: what do you call hair that has traditionally been referred to as Afro hair? Textured, excessively curly, and do you use the Andre Walker Classification System? “I use the term excessively curly hair,” explains Jacqui McIntosh, European education director for Avlon and Denman education partner. “Afro hair is often the most commonly used term, however from a professional standpoint I prefer to use excessively curly hair as I'm dealing with curl formation.” Matrix artist ambassador Lisa Farrall calls it textured hair. “I feel like this term is more diverse and includes all hair types – coily, curly, excessively curly, 3A, 3B, Afro and African,” she says. Meanwhile, Errol Douglas cuts to the chase: “It’s Afro hair, type 4C. I don’t like the word coily, as it’s never used in the salon. ”

Classified Section

When it comes to the Classification System the general consensus is that it is great for educating and demonstrating curl types. “I only really use it as a point of reference, and when educating students,” explains Dionne Smith, Cantu natural hair education expert and celebrity session stylist. “It’s a useful way to identify different hair textures in terms of curls, coils and waves.” Errol relies on it heavily, stating: “It underlines our professionalism so we always use the Classification System when classifying the hair type.” Headmasters creative ambassador Danielle Louis uses the system, particularly when working with coloured hair. “Sometimes colour affects the curl pattern so a client could have different curl types in their hair.” However she only gives the client their classification, as explaining the full system “can be confusing.”

Client Choice

One area that HJ was keen to investigate was whether stylists have noticed a change in how clients are referring to their hair. “I always ask new clients what they call their hair, as it can often identify any issues they’re having with their haircare in terms of product selection,” points out Jacqui. It’s important to show that you’re recommending certain products or styles to your client, based on their hair type. Lisa says: “I show them a picture of their hair pattern which helps them understand better.” It’s key to remember that you are the expert and have the confidence to tell clients what their curl pattern is.

Terms and Conditions

So should there be one term to rule them all or a broadening of language? “I don’t believe there should be one term, because a client may have a variety of curl patterns within their hair,” explains Danielle. The experts agree that the way we teach future generations about Afro hair has to be thought about. For years clients with Afro textured hair have been instructed to smooth or straighten their hair. “We’ve been told that Afro hair is not acceptable in its natural state,” states Dionne. “But I believe in this new generation – it’s more sensitive.” Lisa agrees: “The language we use should uplift and empower. I don’t like any negative words that are associated with excessively curly hair, such as frizzy or unruly.”

Just like hair itself, all stylists are individuals. They use their own language to talk to their clients about hair type; sometimes using phrases interchangeably and based on the situation in hand. Nuances are important, and so is curl clarity.

DON’T MISS… HJ’s Texture Talk videos! A series of panel discussions around Afro and textured hair with industry experts. Head to our YouTube channel this month to see the following talks.

TALK 1: Language and Attitudes with Lameia Cummings, Winnie Awa, Chloe Carterr

TALK 2: The National Occupation Standards and Texture with Mark Blake, Abbey Osho, Caroline Shallow

TALK 3: The Client Experience with Lekia Lee, Michelle Sultan & Brooke Evans

CURL FRIENDS

Let's Twist

Paul Mitchell Twirl Around Cream from the Paul Mitchell Curls range defines curls and calms frizz.This cream-gel separates and enhances curls and waves and helps curls retain their shape and bounce all day long without getting crunchy or stiff.

Crunch Begone

L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Curl Expression 10-in-1 Cream in Mousse provides definition and hydration for curls, without any crunch or rigidness. Formulated without ethylic alcohol, it helps care for hair and leaves no residue.

Gently Does it

Harnessing the power of neem leaf extract,Avlon Keracare Cleansing Cream cleanses hair and eliminates scalp bacteria, leaving hair looking and feeling healthier. Shikakai proteins help moisturise and nourish the hair and scalp, while argan and abyssinian oils add shine to the hair.

Well Gel

The perfect partner to Moisturising Cream, Matrix A Curl Can Dream Total Results Defining Gel extends the life of curls, designed to bring hold and definition to all types of textured hair.

Coconut Crazy

A Cantu classic which is universally loved, Cantu Coconut Curling Cream helps define and condition curls.The brand has new and evolved packaging which is colour coded into cleanse, condition, style and treatment categories, and the back of pack communicates the type of curl each product benefits.

Power Up

Combining the smooth, styling power of Denman’s iconic styling pins with the paddle brush the Denman Power Paddle (D38) is the definitive tool. Detangles, defines curls and push-dries with speed, comfort and ease. £18.50+VAT