There are three elements of disconnection in this cut. For the triangular fringe section, make sure you take the recession line and hairline into consideration. A side section from the top of the ear forward to the hairline with soft external lengths that sit on the cheekbone and accentuate the features. Then the rest of the cut is treated as classic tight cross graduation. A horseshoe section isolates the disconnected areas.
“I LOVE INCORPORATING DISCONNECTION INTO MY WORK, IT CAN ELEVATE CLASSIC SHAPES INTO SOMETHING SPECIAL AND UNIQUE.”
STEP BY STEP
1 Begin working through the sides towards the back using a cross graduation technique.
2 At the point beyond the ear, the hair is overdirected to compensate for the head shape while creating a strong internal shape. Repeat for the opposite side and cross over through the centre back. Check for balance.
3 Using the pre-cut crown length as a guide, create a profile section that extends a square line into the front up to a point towards your pre-sectioned disconnected fringe.
4 Continue to cut the remainder of the top using a square layering technique. Prep the hair prior to the blow-dry. Brandon used Matrix Smooth Setter for a controlled and sleek finish.
5 Once the sides and top have been cut, release all disconnected areas and blow-dry using a wrap drying technique with a Denman D3 brush. Your finish is just as important as your cut, so really take time to blow-dry your shape. Remember, the only thing that creates shine, is tension so really stretch the hair.
6 Dust hair with Greenmouse DAMA Texturiser and to personalise the cut refine all the external lengths visually until happy. Use a pointing technique for a graphic fringe and slice the external disconnected lengths for a soft blend. Break into the top methodically with a pointing technique. Style using Matrix's Matte Definer and Texture Builder for added grit.