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INSIDE OUT

To get to the root of clients’ hair health, we often have to look deeper than their scalp

It’s well known that stress and poor nutrition can lead to acne, premature ageing and dull skin, and with the ‘skinification of hair’ on the rise, it’s no surprise that we’re looking to these factors to help us understand more about hair loss.

The market is awash with anti-hair loss products and treatments but for some clients, the problem lies deeper than the scalp and requires a closer look at their lifestyle too.

The Role of the Hairdresser

Spotting the signs is crucial in order to point clients in the right direction. Hair loss can be a genuine source of distress for clients, but don’t be afraid to discuss the signs – such as a flaky or weeping scalp, irregular hairline or shiny bald spots. Open the conversation by asking if they’ve noticed any changes to their hair density. “We are not trichologists however, based on the issue identified we can provide unique recommendations. We would always recommend that a client books an appointment to see their GP, or we refer them to a trichologist,” says Tim Scott-Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. If you do not have any formal trichology training, there are basic courses available you can take. Though they will not qualify you, they will enable you to recognise irregularities and advise your client on the steps they should take for treatment.

Stress Head

Since the pandemic started, salons have seen a surge of clients' struggling with hair loss. This may be a result of increased stress levels or alternatively, the recovery period following an illness. A condition named Telogen Effluvium explains how stress levels can play a massive role in hair health. “Stress increases the body’s production of adrenaline and cortisol, disrupting the hair’s natural growth cycle,” explains Mark Blake, trichologist for Nioxin. “Significant stress pushes large numbers of hair follicles into a resting phase. Within a few months, affected hairs fall out suddenly when simply combing or washing your hair,” adds Mark Leeson, global ambassador for Revlon Professional. “In clients with Alopecia Areata, there is usually a trigger and 90% of cases are associated with stress, shock, bereavement, illness, surgery, or pregnancy,” says Lisa Caddy, consultant trichologist at Philip Kingsley.

Nutritional Value

“Hair is a non-essential tissue, so it will be the first thing the body cuts back on if there is a deficiency,” says Mark Blake. Kerry Mather, owner of KJM, a stockist of Schwarzkopf Professional explains that the condition of our hair and scalp is directly related to our lifestyle, “The body needs a well-balanced diet and plenty of water to maintain a healthy scalp.” Eve Kalinik, registered nutritional therapist and author explains that it is important to employ stress and sleep management techniques, and that there are some nutrients clients can increase. “Proteins, Iron acids, Vitamin B, Vitamin C and Omega-3 essential fatty acids all contribute to a healthy functioning body.” Danielle Tsimbilaki, Pulp Riot artist, adds “I recommend taking a collagen supplement with plenty of proteins, as well as a B12 vitamin.”

THE BODY NEEDS A WELL-BALANCED DIET AND PLENTY OF WATER TO MAINTAIN A HEALTHY SCALP

The Stylist Solutions

Sam Burnett, KMS global ambassador, suggests using volumising and thickening products that can help from a psychological perspective, “It can help to reduce their [clients’] focus on their hair, meaning less stress.” For clients with textured hair, who are more susceptible to scalp conditions due to its density, Tim Scott-Wright says: “These clients should wash their hair every seven to 10 days and control product build-up.”

And if you’ve never thought about colour being a clever way to disguise thinning, think again. Adam Reed, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris salon partner, and Adam Reed London owner has a great tip: “Colour can really make a difference, and for those with a darker base I recommend deep warm tones.” And in terms of absolute no-nos? “I wouldn’t recommend going lighter in colour as this can sometimes make the hair look finer and lacking body,” he says.

Aveda’s Invati Advanced Thickening Foam thickens and reinforces fragile hair.
£27 

FFOR Re:Gain Remedy is a natural regrowth treatment that combats loss.
RRP: £18

Reduce hair fall by up to 20% in only eight weeks with Nioxin Anti-Hair Loss Serum.
RRP: £48

The Schwarzkopf Professional Scalp Clinix range prolongs the effect of their in-salon service.
RRP from: £17.85

Goldwell Kerasilk Revitalize range shields the scalp from oxidative stress.
RRP from: £10.30

Philip Kingsley Density Stimulating Scalp Toner invigorates the scalp.
RRP from: £19

Revlon Professional RE/START Density Anti-Hair Loss Direct Spray helps to balance the scalp’s microbiome. Trade: £17.15

Help stimulate and optimise growth with Keune Derma Activate range.
Range starts from RRP £19.50

This article appears in August 2022

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This article appears in...
August 2022
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