LIGHTEN UP

Lighter nights and longer days (finally!) means it's time to prepare to lighten your clients’ locks and keep their hair in optimum health. Here’s how…

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

While it may seem cliché to talk about going lighter for the warmer months, let’s be honest, it’s inevitable. Clients are often itching for a trip to the salon for a little blonde in their locks. Whether it be a balayage, full head of highlights, face-framing money piece, or a scalp bleach – as colourists, why not welcome the change with open arms. But, how does the saying go again? Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Because it’s not just about a quick colour fix anymore thanks to the ‘skinification’ of hair and the surge of social media searches into scalp and haircare – it’s about treating your hair how you would treat your skin. So, with that in mind, we went to the biggest colour brands to discuss why now is the perfect time to start preparing for those lighter transformations, what you need to prioritise, and the importance of managing client expectations. 

Conversations in Colour

NICHOLAS JAMES TUCKER

As you know, no transformation is the same. Hair type, hair colour, hair health – these are just some of the things you have to take into consideration when it comes to colour transformations. “Open conversations are key to understanding what your client is asking for,” Layla Smith, Platinum Educator at KEVIN.MURPHY, tells us. “We all perceive colour differently so understanding each other’s ‘colour language’ can make all the difference in achieving the desired results.”

“WE ALL PERCEIVE COLOUR DIFFERENTLY SO UNDERSTANDING EACH OTHER’S ‘COLOUR LANGUAGE’ CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN ACHIEVING THE DESIRED RESULTS.”

Putting it simply, the consultation is where the in-depth conversations happen. As Claire Palmer, Goldwell Education Strategy Coordinator says: “A consultation shouldn’t just happen for the first 5-10 minutes of the service.” Working with lighter transformations, you need to ensure you check off your priorities. From discussing hair type, treatment benefits, colour techniques, the consultation is the key to getting those clients to return. Something that Jayson Gray, KEUNE UK Colour Visionary Artist, uses is skin tone capes. “They’re a great tool for reflecting tones and finding suitability,” he tells us. But thinking in realistic terms is also a great place to start. “Time frame? Budget? These are great factors to consider, but having the hair’s condition in mind with lighter transformations is always crucial,” says Daniel Granger, Schwarzkopf

Professional UK Ambassador. “I always ensure to lighten my client’s hair gently to prevent damage and keep the hair’s integrity.” Likewise, Georgia Bell, Quif Ambassador, tells us: “If the integrity, condition and porosity of the hair isn’t there, then my colour work is not going to look as good.” Which is why, Tia Lambourne, Danger Jones Global Ambassador highlights: “If the hair isn’t healthy, we need to work on bringing it to a better state before we go in with the lightening service.” Eleven Australia UK Education Director, Jo Robertson, tells us: “Sometimes, it's beneficial to improve the hair’s health with an at-home haircare plan first. This approach not only provides a better base for the transformation it also helps gauge the client’s commitment.”

But it’s also about whether the scalp is in a healthy enough condition for a lightening service. “We assess the scalp to ensure it can handle bleaching without irritation or harm,” says Joe Hill, Aveda International Technical Capability Manager.

ANDREW SMITH

“Every client’s hair reacts differently to lightening so I discuss the best techniques for their hair.” Jamie Benny, ALFAPARF Milano Professional Guest Artist agrees, stating: “Once you have analysed the hair, then you can take the next steps in knowing how many shades to your desired result.”

Tone longevity though, is something Tom Smith, evo international creative colour director, prioritises. “To maintain tone as long as possible, the evo fab pro system is an adaptable takehome pigmented conditioner system which tops up tones – essential after a big lightening transformation.”

Moreover, it’s a good idea to factor in trend talk. “Giving the client insight into what you’re planning for seasonal trends as well as exposing them to trends before they hit the mainstream, will show your client how seriously you are about their hair,” says Gareth Williams, Moroccanoil Global Ambassador. Another reason to start having those lighter transformation conversations now!

The suitability for the client is also equally important. “Any references you can use to support the wow factor and how you can achieve it will help the client relate to the end result better,” says Christel Barron-Hough, Wella Guest Artist. “Tuning in to what the client likes is super important as references of models or celebrities can be chosen to suit their personal style.” But you also need to tune in to what they don’t like explains Edward Taylor at Jungle Fever UK: “Dependent on how big of a transformation, you need to get through those hates to get to the loves.”

Let Me Check My Schedule

ANTHONY GRANT

Perhaps something that is second nature for you and your colour clients is scheduling their next appointment before they leave the salon. But if not, let’s talk regular appointment scheduling and why it's hugely beneficial. “This approach allows us to map out the journey towards the desired result,” says Joe. And it’s something Victoria Panting for Paul Mitchell opts for: “I aim to map out a full year of services with my clients, building in appointments for glossing, treatments, and touch-ups to ensure their colour stays looking fresh and their hair remains healthy,” she tells us. That’s a year of expected income!

What’s more, Joana Merêncio, Andreia Professional Technical Hair Trainer, shares that a schedule helps you manage time more effectively and focus on the client. “This not only enhances the overall experience for everyone but maintains better control over salon management by estimating the products we need, reducing waste and optimising the salon’s profitability.”

But most importantly, you want them to return to the chair. “It’s a great way to keep your clients loyal – nobody else is going to know their colour journey like you,” says Gareth. Plus, according to Marlon Hawkins, Artistic Director at Brooks & Brooks for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, it gets them excited about their next visit. Daniel also adds that by providing the client with the length of time it might take to achieve their dream colour you are managing their expectations. As we know, most clients don’t have realistic expectations about what it takes to maintain their hair. “It’s part of our job to educate our clients,” explains Hayley Penny, Yellow Professional Educator. “Without giving a science lesson, my clients appreciate when I share my knowledge about the hair’s structure – explaining what lightening products actually do to the hair.”

Transparency is Key

GOLDWELL

And it’s this transparency that builds a solid trust. “I am always upfront and honest if I have any concerns about achieving the goal colour,” says Amy Woods for Directions. Similarly, Jon Aherne, ASP Ambassador, shares: “I provide realistic yet exciting outcomes to ensure the client loves each step of their hair transformation.” Likewise, Dan Spiller, JOICO EMEA Colour Ambassador explains: “Regular check-ins throughout help ensure clients are comfortable and understand the possibilities and the limitation of the service.” Besides, clients need to know what comes with a lightening service. “I never beat around the bush,” says Sophia Hilton for Crazy Color. “They need to know that bleach deteriorates hair. But they also need to know you’ve carefully chosen the products for the best possible results.”

It also ensures you maintain a good relationship with your client, Kelly Shone-Adams, OSMO Technical Advisor, tells us. “Being honest about what can be achieved needs to be discussed,” she says. Something that Holly Bullock, NXT Brand Ambassador, likes to do is show photos of a previous, similar transformation. Nicholas James Tucker, Elgon Ambassador, also focuses on the retail side of the appointment: “As we know each client is different – I advise products to help maintain healthy hair during the lightening process and advise on the proposed aftercare.” Something that Shu-Lan Cheung, FFØR Technical Educator, agrees with. “Let them know how much or how little heat can be used in between appointments too.” As searches for haircare only increase, recommending the right products and aftercare after lightening treatments, is just another way for you to earn a few extra pennies. “I have found a move towards prioritising aftercare,” Emma Simmons, UKI Revlon Professional Creative Artist tells us. “Clients are loving personalised solutions tailored to their individual needs.”

And with the warmer months just around the corner, keep in mind the saying - fail to prepare, prepare to fail…