THE GENERATION GAME

Each generation has had a different response to the cost of living crisis – but you can increase spend across them all. The experts show us how...

As we covered in the previous feature, the cost of living crisis is undeniably having an impact on professional colour services. But with research showing that each generation has different spending habits, it’s essential that you are advertising your colour services effectively to clients of all ages.

We would never want to dictate how each generation colours their hair, but hearing from the experts on the ground what’s trending in each generation is vital. It’s also worth pointing out that although the most frequently used terminology for each generation (Baby Boomers, Gen X, Millennials and Gen Z) covers a lot of your client bases, you may well have colour clients outside of these age ranges. (HJ personally knows of at least one ninetyyear-old client having regular colour appointments, so don’t neglect them!) As Heather Shaw, Francesco Group Colour Director points out, “I think it’s important to stay connected with how each person feels about their colour. Everyone is different, so you must give personalised consultations allowing your clients time to talk.” As ever, consultation is king.

1 GEN Z

Currently aged between 8 and 25 years old

Anything goes, this age group pushes the boundaries of gender and conformity. They look to video content for inspiration and think perfection is over-rated.

Born from 1997-2012, these clients came into their teenage-hood and young adulthood during the pandemic, and now they’ve got the cost of living crisis to contend with too. In economic terms, it’s likely they don’t know anything different to financial turmoil. In fact, newspaper The Economist hits the nail on the head when they write, “they have expensive tastes, but thin wallets.” To put it bluntly, this is something to use to your advantage. Wow them with desirable trends, at achievable prices. In terms of marketing to Gen Z it’s all about social media. “Instagram and Pinterest are my biggest platforms for Gen Z clients,” explains Lyla-May Woolley, Electric Hairdressing, Brighton for L’Oréal Professionnel. “They like inspiration pictures and videos that are universal, in fact clients often choose elements from multiple pictures to create a look that feels more bespoke to them.”

If there’s one thing Gen Z love, it’s a throwback (even if they weren’t alive the first time around). “Want to do a modern take on a retro style? Why not try a racoon tail and bring out your client's inner scene kid?” says Directions Ambassador, Poppy Johnson. “Use ebony over your clients previously lightened hair in horizontal lines, leaving around an inch between each line. This technique can be added to any hair colour to give it a 2005 edge.”

2 MILLENNIALS

Currently aged between 26 and 42 years old

This age group grew up with noughties fashion and celebrity influences. However, the tide is turning and they're going for something more understated – it's all about quiet luxury now.

Millennials are trend-led but ultimately they are after colour that is more low maintenance. They are moving up the career ladder but also want to get on the property ladder, so price is key for them. You can’t talk about millennials, without paying dues to their commitment to blonde, which is something that Dan Spiller, JOICO Colour Ambassador and British Colour Technician of the Year can attest to: “A lot of my millennial clients love a classic full head of highlights, but it’s important to be innovative with hair colour. I’ve been upgrading golden blondes with multi tonal flecks to create a dimensional, seamless colour finish.” This technique is perfect for millennial clients who want to freshen up their colour but are also after a high impact result without too much maintenance and spend required. The key is booking the client back in regularly for toners, glossing treatments and colour touch ups in order to keep them loyal.

How to do that? “Social media posts are very enticing to this generation and they're likely to make a booking off a picture they have seen online,” says Manic Panic UK Ambassador, Emma Pullen. “To be honest, this is why this generation rocks, they know what they want, and will show you exactly what they don't want too.” Give this client a service they love and they’ll be yours for life!

3 GEN X

Currently aged between 43 and 58 years old

A revolt from the previous generation (see Baby Boomers) Gen X grew up in a time of changing societal values. The boom of MTV defined social identities such as punk and, later, grunge.

Those feeling most impacted by the cost-of-living crisis tend to be consumers in later life stages, with greater financial responsibilities. Conversely, in 2021 this age group had the highest disposable income according to the Office for National Statistics. How times change.

Just because raising mortgage rates has hit this generation hard, it doesn’t mean they’re not open to experimention – this is a generation of former punks, after all. “I have found that since lockdown, our Gen X clients have started to embrace greying hair,” says Terri Nadin, ASP UK Ambassador. But not in the way their parents would have done. For Gen X, a natural base means a chance to experiment. “It’s given hairstylists the opportunity to use colour to its fullest potential (instead of just a root retouch every four weeks). Now we can experiment with fun toneon-tone and semi-permanent hair colours. For example, the Puretone Ammonia free range can create bespoke formulas that fade beautifully on natural white hair.”

When it comes to getting new clients, Adele Clarke, OSMO Ambassador and owner of Spectrum Salons in St Helens heads to Facebook. “Our Facebook page is better for targeting Gen X clients (Instagram tends to be more Millennials and Gen Z interactions). We share more work from our Gen X stylists on this platform.”

4 BABY BOOMERS

Currently between 59 and 75 years old

Traditionally, these clients have always been all about conforming, but times are changing.

Although this generation report feeling heavily affected by the cost of living crisis, they do still have disposable income. If they’re embracing their greys, how can you get them to spend more money, not less?

As well as keeping regular appointments, colourists need to promote express services such as glossing and partial highlights/lowlights to allow this generation to feel inspired, but without commitment. “For the last few years we may have helped our clients to embrace their grey,” says Francesco Group’s Heather Shaw. “But how do they feel about it now? Would they like to add depth? Do they feel too grey? Are they bored?” Similarly for Sarah George, Elgon’s South West Educator, it frustrates her that the Baby Boomer generation are sometimes a ‘lost’ generation when it comes to a colour consultation. “A lot of my guests want ‘natural’, softer results and this is where Elgon’s newest colour brand Get The Colour comes in. It’s a permanent vegan brand that gives multi-faceted results and a natural shine.” Giving clients options is key to engaging not just this generation, but every generation. “We need to be inclusive of everyone in advertising. Do you post older clients on social? Are your team able to cut short hair? If we’re really being inclusive why haven’t they been offered the same service as a natural blonde who is 25?”asks Crystal Ault, Slunks Salon, Crazy Color's Brand Ambassador salon.

THE GEN Z EDIT

1 L’ANZA Healing Colour has 101 intermixable shades. The brand has created a 365° colour chart with concepts using a mixture of these colours to create a colour for every day of the year.

2 Get creative with the Pulp Riot The Shadow Collection which offers a vegan, conditioner-based formula. The Collection has the same anti-bleed properties as the Semi-Permanent range, with the product hardening on the hair strand so colourists can lay contrasting hues together without fear of any spreading.

THE MILLENNIAL EDIT

1 GLOSS IS BOSS
magi:gloss from Quif, delivers beautiful tones on natural, previously coloured or lightened hair.As magi:gloss lasts up to 20 washes, it means millennial clients can keep up with current trends on a low committment basis.

2 COLOUR CARE
Protect coloured hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Metal Detox Professional High Protection Cream. It helps fight UV impact, oxidation, brushing and heat to help keep hair healthy, and colour true -to-tone.

THE GEN X EDIT

1 BRIGHTER, BETTER

ALFAPARF Milano Professional Pigments is made up of 12 Ultra Concentrated Pure Pigments designed to enrich any ALFAPARF Milano Professional service, including perming and straightening. These ultra-concentrated pigments revive both natural and colour-treated hair, keeping colour bright and vibrant.

2 COLOUR CONTROL

The formula for Matrix Tonal Control visibly oxidises in real time so colourists know when the colour is ready to rinse after processing. It can also be applied on towel dried hair and comes in a gel-like consistency for ultimate control.

THE BABY BOOMER EDIT

1 NATURAL WONDER
The totally intermixable Wella Professionals Illumina Colour range gives naturallooking colour results and up to 100% grey coverage. Either use to blend or achieve full coverage on grey/white hair, it always gives a sheer result.

2 CARE FOR HAIR
Moroccanoil Professional Colour is made with ProArginine, a type of Amino Acid naturally found throughout the existing structure of the hair fibre. Couple that with the ArganID® System, and you've got a collection that cares and nourishes hair while it colours.