HEADFIRST into SCALP HEALTH

We explore the growth of scalp care and hair loss treatments and how they can benefit both your business and your clients

Scalp care and hair loss management are becoming increasingly popular areas of focus in the hair and wellness industry, from serums and treatments that are specifically formulated to nourish the scalp, to holistic approaches and an increased emphasis on education. Dubbed the ‘skinification’ of hair, there is a growing awareness of the importance of scalp health and a deeper look into how to manage hair loss – before it can become an issue.

“With 50% of the population suffering from thinning hair or hair loss, this is the biggest untapped market in hairdressing. The thinning hair market has not been taken seriously by hairdressers, maybe because it’s not an exciting part of the market, however it’s where the money is – and clients are desperate for help,” explains Mark Blake, (MIT WTS IAT Trichologist) and Nioxin ambassador. Rob Wood, Founder and Creative Director at Novo Cabelo, agrees that the relationship between a hairstylist and their client is important when it comes to matters of health. “Hairstylists are seen as a trusted guide for their hair,” he explains. “We should all do as much as we can to learn and understand what services we can offer. Clients would rather come to their own stylist instead of starting a new relationship in a new salon.”

Hair loss specialist Sharni Knighton recently shared, in conversation with Cloud Nine, that she has seen a change in how clients approach their hair health with more feeling empowered to seek help: “Years ago, hair loss was not openly discussed. Women often accepted it and suffered in silence, while stylists hesitated to mention it even if they noticed hair loss or thinning.” Sharni shares that hair loss used to be equated with ageing, which was something to be feared or avoided, adding that attitudes to medicalrelated hair loss have also changed, be it gastric surgery, or chemotherapy. “In the past, if a client underwent cancer treatment, they often didn't return to the salon. It seemed people hid away, but now there's a new approach to health and wellbeing. Women share their journeys with others, offering support and showing they are not alone. This has led to a change in attitudes towards hair loss. We no longer accept it; we ask why it is happening and what we can do about it. Women are empowering and supporting each other through their journeys,” explains Sharni.

For Steven Goldsworthy, Director at Goldsworthy’s, Swindon, the issue of hair loss shouldn’t be viewed as a purely profitable situation. “Hair loss is quite a traumatic experience for anyone and to simply treat clients in order to increase profits is unethical. By having a good understanding and a decent referral system to a qualified professional, such as a Trichologist, you will be supporting your clients in the best way you can. If you are knowledgeable in this field and can recommend and offer good quality treatments and products, then you will undoubtedly gain the trust and loyalty of your clientwho in turn will recommend you to others, and this will ultimately be good for any business.”

The Power of Choice

The 'skinfication' of hair has become a rapidly growing trend within the industry, says Lauren Gibson, Director of Training and Education at Hyrdafacial: “Over the past few years, consumers have become savvy about the positive effects of ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, and peptides on skin healthsince our scalps are part of our skin, similar benefits and results can be achieved by incorporating these into treatments.” Laura goes on to explain that innovations in technology and ingredients have led to cutting-edge treatments that are revolutionising hair and scalp care. “There is growing demand in-clinic for non-invasive treatments addressing scalp issues and hair loss, and I anticipate that these approaches will become even more tailored and sophisticated over time.” Tom Smith, evo International Creative Colour Director tells us that as science “leaps forward” with more solutions, he’s excited about red light helmet devices (which use a wavelength of red light to energise and boost the performance of the follicle cells) and the Calecim Advanced Hair System, which harnesses revolutionary Stem Cell technology. “As more drug-free options become available it marks the early stages of a new in-salon category which can build new businessincluding retail business.”

Dr Marco Nicoloso, Medical Director at Ouronyx, outlines further advancements in regenerative and reparative treatments that are addressing hair and scalp issues. “Treatments such as Polynucleotides, TricoPat or Mircografting create a healthy environment that promotes healthier and stronger hair.” Rob also sees the benefit of having multiple services for stylists to offer their clients as demand for hair loss services continue to increase. “We have seen an alarming rate of hair loss cases over the last three to four years and if hairstylists can’t support their clients, they simply feel helpless. Hair replacement systems are perfect for men, women and children with irreversible hair loss and offers hairstylists a solution that can help.” Steven agrees that there is an increased awareness from clients, explaining: “More people are researching their problems and gaining an understanding of what is happening to cause their hair loss or thinning. We are seeing much more acceptance of hair transplants and replacement systems for hair loss.”

For those salons that are seeing an increase in the need for solutions, Steven recommends looking for professional products you can offer your clients, but to be aware of over promising. “All hair thinning and hair loss solutions will take months to show improvement and clients need to understand the commitment involved. Having at least one member of staff who is well versed in the causes of hair loss can help clients understand why it is happening.” HJ recently met Nutritionist, Neuroscientist and Naturopath Lara Hughes, speaking on a panel with CENTRED founders, Keiran and Laura Tudor. Lara agrees that providing clients with education on the hair growth cycle is key to their hair loss journey. She explains how lifestyle, stress or genetic predispositions can impact hair health but that clients should be encouraged to do their research and speak to their Doctor in the first instance.

HAVING AT LEAST ONE MEMBER OF STAFF WHO IS WELL VERSED IN THE CAUSES OF HAIR LOSS CAN HELP CLIENTS UNDERSTAND WHY IT IS HAPPENING

“There is no magic pill. It’s important to maintain a balance of nutrients for optimal hair health. High-sugar gummies or collagen supplements, for example, can have an adverse effect so encourage clients to consult a healthcare professional before supplementing – especially for those on medication.” Max Heal, founder of HEAL’s HAIR agrees that lifestyle, diet and an unsuitable haircare routine can contribute to hair loss. “As more people are using hair loss products such as minoxidil and finasteride the side effects have become more apparent. This is leading to more people looking for an alternative approach to treat hair loss.”

Every client’s experience with hair loss is personal, whether they are opting for regenerative treatments or exploring the connection between nutrition and hair health, it is important that stylists feel equipped to provide the right solution whilst elevating their service offering.

THE SCALP CARE EDIT

1 KERAVIVE

Keravive® by Hydrafacial is a professional 30 minute in-clinic scalp treatment that goes much deeper than a hair wash.

RRP: Partial Scalp (1 treatment and 3 take home sprays) from £365, (dependent on clinic and location).

2 BOUCLÈME SCALP SERUM

This serum provides instant relief for dandruff, scalp redness and irritation. Clients can simply add these calming drops to their shampoo.

RRP: £22

3 ESLA ITALY CALMING SCALP ELIXIR

Applied directly to the scalp, the Calming Scalp Elixir offers an instant soothing sensation. Brassica extract offers hydrating, protective and strengthening properties.

RRP: £33.50

4 EVO TOP DROP

This scalp concentrate soothes, balances and protects the scalp, and improves the condition of the hair. It’s the perfect addition to any salon service for dry, itchy and irritated scalps.

RRP: £74.70

5 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS SCALP ADVANCED

The Intense Soother from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is designed to calm and soothe scalp discomfort without weighing down the hair fibre.

RRP: £24.60

6 NIOXIN ANTI-HAIR LOSS SERUM SANDALORE™

The Anti-Hair Loss Serum with Sandalore™, is a new revolutionary serum that improves hair density making it stronger and reducing hair loss.

RRP: £57.50

7 CENTRED EN-ROOT SCALP TREATMENT

The En-Root Scalp Treatment is a facial for the scalp, designed to nourish and revitalise. This 3-in-1pre-shampoo is non-greasy with oil-to-milk technology that stimulates, exfoliates and nourishes.

RRP: £36

8 CALECIM ADVANCED HAIR SYSTEM

The Calecim Advanced Hair System is a serum that helps to stimulate the scalp and wake up hair follicles whilst also reducing the appearance of shedding.

RRP: £315

9 HEAL’S HAIR

HEAL’S HAIR has a range of three hair styling products, made from natural ingredients, that nourish the hair and scalp and help to reduce the impact of hair loss.

RRP: £28 each