COLOUR NOTES

Tom Smith, International Colour Director of evo, talks 10,000 hours, two-tone tints and frosted tips

What do you love most about being a colourist?

I feel passionate about bringing together all the facets of hairdressing. When I consider hair colour, it’s the ability to bring a spotlight of personality to an overall design. Colour is the emotion of the result and it is essential for telling the story of the look.

What is the most important question you ask in a colour consultation and why?

When it comes to naturally occurring tones, I ask the client if they have thought about how they identify. If a brunette client is gradually incorporating lightness, it’s important to know if they identify strongly as a brunette, otherwise they may begin to feel too blonde. It sounds simple, but it gives you immediate valuable insights.

LIGHT Particularly sunlight, but all light sources and the power they have to manipulate tone and depth of colour, inspires me.

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

I was never a fan of the blonde/plum two-tone tint. Not only is colour transfer a huge issue, but I just don’t find the tone combination pleasing in any way.

SOUTH BEACH MIAMI The sky, ocean, pale sand, greenery of Ocean Beach Drive and the art deco elements in the local architecture, brings so many palettes to mind.

Are there any colour trends you’d like to bring back?

I’d like to see the frosted tip techniques have a little reinvention. I think it has real potential to play well with a lot of the grown-out and textured shorter styles, particularly in the male market.

What are the challenges facing colourists right now?

It can be hard to separate facts from marketing language. We can’t possibly understand colour chemical theory as deeply as cosmetic scientists and criticising a formula based on a single ingredient is insulting to their knowledge.

FABRICS AND MATERIALS I’m always intrigued by fabrics in public spaces when I travel. The prints, patterns, and palettes of upholstery varies from place to place.

What do you think will be the next big colour trend?

Warm palettes are going to be huge in the coming 18 months. Since coppers have become a salon staple, the interest in reds and violet tones has been growing consistently.

What colour technique are you known for?

My approach is totally bespoke. I believe in precision, intentionality and cleanliness. I’m grateful for my Sassoon foundations and the precision and respect that it taught, but I’m more grateful to have built experience across various techniques of hair colour.

What colour creation makes you most proud?

I had the opportunity to create a full concept professional colour line with evo. Working with the team was not only deeply fascinating, but having had a hand in creating the colours I’m using on my clients, brings a new feeling to an end-to-end service.

IPHONE APPS You can sort apps by colour. It’s interesting how industries lean towards shades. It’s a reminder of the psychological power of colour.

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?

Focus on getting your 10,000 hours in – that’s the amount of time that author Malcolm Gladwell believes it takes to master a craft. The more opportunities to practice your skill set, formulations, applications, and various techniques, the faster you’ll become an expert.

What is the biggest lesson you’ve learnt from being a colourist?

Colour psychology is a massive part of subconscious human behaviour and the way that the shades you choose enhance your appearance literally has the ability to change your life.

EYE COLOUR Eye colour is always an inspiration for me. On the newer iPhone, if you set the camera to 0.5 zoom and get close, you get the most incredible detail.