EXTENSIONS

Celebrity extension transformations have a lot to answer for when it comes to giving clients false extension expectations. HJ investigates

From Kendall Jenner to Cardi B, today’s celebrities can make clients believe they can get the hair they want overnight. The amazing advancements in extensions do offer length and volume previously unavailable to clients, but as all extensions specialists know, it’s crucial that you talk to your clients about upkeep, the time it takes to achieve those looks and what’s feasible and realistic with different hair types.

Extensionists give their advice on the looks clients can achieve without a glam-squad on speed-dial.

HAIR: ERROL DOUGLAS MBE PHOTOGRAPHY: JACK EAMES STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY MAKE-UP: CHERYL PHELPS-GARDINER

“Getting extensions is a full-time job and both a commitment in nancial terms and the time it takes to look after them. The following are just some of the needs I outline to clients so they know the level of upkeep required: They’ll need to separate their bonds daily, wash their extensions only in the way their extensions brand advises, invest in an etensionsspecic toolkit which includes shampoo, conditioner, brush and a heat protection spray. Finally, they need regular maintenance appointments in a salon every four to six weeks to prevent damage to the client’s own hair and their extensions.”
Simon Stainton, Zen Hair UK educator

“A lot of my clients cite Kim and the Kardashian family as hair inspirations. I try to politely explain that they have a personal stylist following them around on a daily basis and they don’t have to maintain their extensions themselves. Plus, the extensions might be applied ust for a oneoff image or shoot and isn’t designed to be worn for long periods of time. Often clip-in hair is added in to make the hair appear thicker for a shoot. I always tell my clients that hair extensions, depending on the method, can take hours and hours to apply. If a lot of hair is added, they can feel heavy and uncomfortable and will take hours to shampoo and style. It’s all about showing them the reality.”
Sarah Sullivan, UK technical advisor, Hairdreams

“Extension aftercare is so important to protect both the integrity and condition of your client’s own hair, but also that of the bonds and extensions. We recommend clients use a Great Lengths Shampoo at home to promote longevity and care. There’s one for every hair type, including Silver Shine Shampoo for blondes, Structure Repair, Daily Moisture and Ultimate Colour, which are formulated to work in harmony with Great Lengths extensions. Conditioner should be used to give moisture and shine, but make sure clients don’t apply to the root/ application area as conditioner can affect the bonds and cause them to detach prematurely. We also recommend blow-dries and treatments to make the most of your client’s hair and ensure its longevity.”
Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton

Creative Direction and Storytelling: Alessandro Molinari and Elisa Barbieri FOR GREAT LENGTHS Film Director and Photographer: Alessandro Molinari Artistic Director: Rossano Ferretti

“Make sure the client’s hair is clean and worn down when matching the colour of the natural hair. If the client’s hair is not clean it can appear darker or a different shade. Ensure matching is done in natural but not direct sunlight. Match the client’s hair at several parts of the head including the ends. Do not be afraid to mix and match hair extension shades to match your client’s natural hair. If they want to add a new shade to their hair talk through the shade ring and understand what they would like to achieve, suggest two or three different shades that you think would be suitable – communication is key.”
Emily-Louise Bowden, Rapture manager, Rapture Hair Extensions at Banbury Postiche

GOLDFEVER

“If a client wants to recreate a celebrity look and it isn’t possible for their hair type, I say no, but I always put a positive spin on it. Clients will be more responsive if you explain a solution that works rather than a straight refusal. Try to pinpoint what it is they like about the look – is it the amount of volume for example? Depending on their natural hair I’d always give them options that will protect their natural hair. Protecting our clients’ natural hair is our main priority. Also, make it clear this will be an investment in so many positive ways. By wearing hair extensions, a client will get longer out of a blow-dry, which means less styling to the natural hair.”
Ceira Lambert, head educator for Gold Fever