HEY BIG SPENDER

Everything you need to know about Old Money, the ‘your-hair-but-better’ trend that’s taking client’s social feeds by storm

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

Luxurious and rich, Old Money hair looks like it’s never worked a day in its life. Effortlessly healthy, it’s the sort of colour that isn’t natural, but still looks it – which is part of the reason behind its popularity. From the various interpretations of the trend and the techniques to master to the best strategies to market it effectively, here’s everything you should know about Old Money hair.

Old Money, New Techniques

Old Money hair is the epitome of luxury – but what exactly does that mean when it comes to colour and technique? Tom Smith, evo International Creative Colour Director, explains: “Old Money hair is about creating results where the method used to achieve them is undetectable, creating seamless blends and effortless grow-outs.” Victoria Panting, Technical Educator at Paul Mitchell, expands on this, sharing that subtlety is the key: “The colour should look as though it hasn’t been touched by modern trends, yet it still stands out due to its exceptional quality and understated, old-school glamour.”

“OLD MONEY HAIR IS ABOUT CREATING RESULTS WHERE THE METHOD USED TO ACHIEVE THEM IS UNDETECTABLE, CREATING SEAMLESS BLENDS AND EFFORTLESS GROW-OUTS ”

When we asked a range of experts how they interpret Old Money hair, some of the most frequently used phrases were ‘low contrast’, ‘high shine’ and ‘soft blends’. So, what are the best methods to achieve this – and which methods should you steer clear of?

“We would use a combination of soft balayage and fine babylights, focusing on creating natural, seamless transitions between shades,” explains Mark Leeson, Goldwell Ambassador UKI. “The goal is to add dimension without sharp contrasts.” Meanwhile, Gareth Williams, Moroccanoil Global Color Ambassador, opts for teased highlights that are placed to fall in synergy with the hair’s natural fall, as this will help achieve a subtle result. Further discussing the benefits of considered colour placement, Dan Spiller, JOICO Colour Ambassador, adds: “Ensuring that the highlights are placed strategically throughout the hair for that glowing, glossy, luxurious effect, while adding a super subtle shadow root will add depth and dimension to the look.”

When it comes to achieving shine, Brooke Evans, owner of BE Ironbridge and Quif Ambassador, is a fan of glossing techniques, something Nikki Clifford from NJUK Hair & Beauty and Wella Guest Artist agrees with. “With Old Money hair, the key is a look that’s polished but not overdone, which is why for the final touch, I use Shinefinity gloss 00/00 to enhance shine and add that luxurious, well-kept feel.” However, Jake Nugent, OMSO Ambassador, explains that the health of the client’s hair also plays a role. He says: “If I knew someone’s hair could be damaged in the process, I would talk to the client and chat through different options – colourists now have so many great products that can help keep the hair at its optimum.” Jake’s personal favourite is OSMO’s new Chromaprep Chelating Mist, a no-mix treatment spray designed to use before colour services to ensure the cleanest base possible.

Thinking about seamless blends, Coia Styles, Alfaparf Milano Professional Brand Ambassador shares: “Freehand painting is amazing for a soft multi-dimensional colour – it creates highs and lows while maintaining that smooth blend. However, in blondes I think maintaining depth and adding what I call ‘freehand lows’ helps keep the colour from looking over-bleached.”

When discussing what might not work best for this trend, Ceri Cushen, Revlon Professional UKI Creative Artist, notes: “No harsh bleaching, no root taps and no face-framing here.” Delving into the topic of how the evolution of client preferences has had an effect on the techniques colourists perform, Joe Hill, Aveda International Technical Capability Manager, adds: “I feel like the days of delivering classical services like foils and T sections are coming to an end. We will of course always have some clients who still prefer these methods, however there has been a shift towards more detailed, personalised approaches.”

It's All in the Details

One of the reasons Old Money hair has proven so popular is its ability to transcend hair colour, type or texture. Mathew Watt, co-owner of Socially Painted, Edinburgh, and FFØR Ambassador, touches on the former: “The client's natural hair colour is a key factor. You want to work with their natural tones and when adding lighter pieces, you are not going more than two shades lighter than their natural depth.”

Ashely Long, Revlon Professional UKI Creative Artist, praises the versatility of Old Money blonde in particular, noting that you can easily take this look warmer or cooler depending on the client’s skin tone. When formulating Old Money looks, Holly Bullock, NXT Brand Ambassador notes that the brand’s Meche Lightening System in place of bleach can not only help to create a warmer, more natural result, but will also deliver a more seamless finish.

“CONSUMERS ARE SAVVIER THAN EVER ABOUT THEIR DESIRES AROUND BESPOKE, CAREFULLY CURATED COLOUR DESIGNS AND DEMAND SALON RESULTS THEY COULD NEVER ACHIEVE AT HOME WITH BOX COLOUR”

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

Another consideration is whether the hair is fine or coarse, with Mark sharing: “For fine hair, I avoid overly light shades, as they can make the hair look flat or thin. Instead, I build depth with gentle lowlights and a gloss. For coarser or curly hair, I add slightly more contrast, as curls can diffuse colour.”

Meanwhile, Sophie Fedoriw from Safy B's touches on the importance of personalisation in hairdressing, explaining: “I aim to give my clients a bespoke service that's tailored to them and their hair. For example, you will always see the ribbons of colour appear stronger in hair with texture, so this would influence how chunky you can go with the lowlight placement.”

Discussing his preferred approach to colouring textured hair, Tim Scott-Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Ambassador and Educator shares: “For curly or textured hair, I work freehand, focusing on individual coils or curls, and picking out sections to highlight with the Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME Clay Lightener. This product is perfect for adding a soft lift without overpowering the natural curl pattern. This approach also enhances the natural shape and avoids anything too uniform.” Yet with any great consultation, there are discussions to be had not just in regard to their hair type, but also their personality, lifestyle and maintenance concerns. “Consumers are savvier than ever about their desires around bespoke, carefully curated colour designs and demand salon results they could never achieve at home with box colour,” says Tom.

GARETH WILLIAMS

Speaking of carefully curated colour, Michael Decesare of Decesare Hair Salon in Milton Keynes notes that Old Money requires flawless formula records so you can introduce subtle variations throughout the year while retaining the overall look the client loves. He says: “We use Vish Colour Management so we have every client’s formula on record, allowing us to revisit and make subtle changes to the formula – as little as 0.5g of a toner, because the scales are incredibly accurate.”

Spread the Word

Looking for ideas to help promote these colour services in your salon? We’ve got you covered. Norman Boulton, Crazy Color Ambassador, suggests: “Model hunts are a great place to start. Get out there and find people who are ready to try on-trend looks and build a portfolio that reflects your vision – then use social media to bring it all together.” And when it comes to creating successful social content, Paco Latorre, Directions Ambassador, shares his formula for success: “Videos with trending music, technique development, and the final result are also a great way to educate our clients about the actual process behind each service, thus highlighting the value we have to offer.”

According to Rob Eaton at Russell Eaton, for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, Old Money hair is all about creating beautiful hair that has longevity and can be dressed in different ways. He says: “It’s about putting hair integrity and hair health at the forefront of everything; that’s easy to market as that’s what every client wants regardless of age or style.”

It’s Cool to Care

MARNEY LIAN

While Old Money hair is inspired by timeless trends, that doesn’t mean new products shouldn’t be at the forefront when creating, and maintaining these looks. “Old Money hair is about capturing that timeless quality where the hair appears beautifully cared for, as if it’s been nurtured over generations,” says Beverley Rosser, KEVIN.MURPHY Ambassador. “I would recommend using KEVIN.MURPHY’s Shimmer.Me Blonde for added shine and Hydrate-Me Wash and Rinse to keep the hair healthy and moisturised.”

Meanwhile, Elgon Educator Sarah George highlights the importance of enhancing shine and volume, recommending a combination of Elgon Yes Shine Crystal Water and AFFIX Volume Pump Mousse 42. To really nail the shine, Ben Nott, ELEVEN Australia Educator shares his love for ELEVEN Australia’s Make Me Shine Gloss Spray to achieve the coveted aesthetic that everyone is after – and as an added bonus, it’s an anti-humectant, helping to control frizz and flyways. For a final finishing touch, Victoria recommends Paul Mitchell’s Super Skinny Serum, which she says is perfect for smoothing and sealing the hair, giving it that sleek, glossy, polished finish.

When it comes to this trend, ensuring your client’s colour remains well-maintained in between appointments is crucial to keeping it looking luxurious, which is why Jayson Gray, UK Colour Visionary Artist for Keune, encourages his clients to adopt a professional haircare routine at home. His most-recommended products? Keune’s Color Brillianz range, which feature a colour sealing complex, which creates a protective barrier around each strand to lock pigment in. Plus, with the addition of silk proteins, hair is deeply nourished and luminous.

JAKE NUGENT

A New Wave

Discussing what the resurgence of this trend says about current consumer preferences when it comes to professional hair services, Tim, says: “I believe we’re seeing a shift towards more polished, put-together looks, with people putting more effort into their appearance. There’s a real nostalgia here, bringing back that late 90s, early 2000s groomed aesthetic; it’s very much in line with the styles we saw in Sex and the City.”

Meanwhile, Marney Lian, owner at Gritt London and Revlon Creative Artist, shares the biggest challenge she has faced while trying to modernise this timeless style, explaining: “You need to remind clients that less is more and achieving a timeless, natural finish requires a lot of time, effort, and work to get the look. With Old Money hair, brighter is not always better.” That’s to say, a lot of skill is required to achieve a flawless finish – so hairdressers should not shy away from charging premium prices.

As for the longevity of this trend, Ashley suggests it’s here to stay, explaining: “Gen Z clients seem to have a lot more consideration for the condition of their hair – they’re more mindful of what’s being placed on their scalps and what the upkeep of their look will be going forward – which is why I think they’ll continue to request these types of colours. That being said, I also think the effortless luxury Old Money has to offer makes it a favourite amongst more mature clients too.” When you combine this with the versatility afforded by Old Money hair, it seems we might have a winning formula for getting bums on seats while keeping clients happy.