SCISSORS: A FIRST-TIME BUYER’S GUIDE

As a stylist’s most important tool, scissors are worth investing in. But there are a number of things to consider before buying your first, second, and even third pair…

DANIELE DE ANGELIS

As a hair professional, it’s likely that the one tool you will be holding for most of your professional life is a pair of scissors. Which is why they should fit in your hand like a glove. “Buying a pair of scissors is literally like Harry Potter choosing a wand,” says Melissa Timperley of Melissa Timperley Salons. “Different styles will suit different hand shapes and it’s crucial to get it right. You’ve got to get the basics right if you want to create work to be proud of.” Doing your research before deciding on a pair to buy, is essential.

So where to begin? “At a basic level, your scissors are an extension of your hands, so the most important thing is that they feel like they are part of you,” advises Marcello Moccia, Room 97 Creative, Wakefield. “Hold them, feel how heavy they are, does the length suit you or do you need something shorter?” he says. You also need to take into consideration the type of work you do. “Cutting precise lines requires a different pair from when you are texturising, so it’s likely you’ll need both,” adds Marcello.

MELISSA TIMPERLEY

Another important factor to consider is the size of the blade. “You’ll want to choose a blade that’s the right length for your hand,” says Tori Stewart, Creative Director at Leaf Scissors. “To find the right length, measure the blade from the base of your hand to the end of your index finger to get a baseline for what length to go for.” This will then make it easier to control the scissors.

But often, it can be wise to start your career with a good all-rounder. “I believe a pair of 5.5 inch scissors are great for lines, layering, and graduation,” says Jake Unger, HOB Academy, London. “Personally, I love a 4.5 inch for short and intricate areas of the head and around the shoulder area.” Likewise, Robert Kirby, Robert Kirby London tells us, “The type of scissors you use will depend on your experience. I would recommend 5.5 inch for my assistants as these are light and good to get used to holding scissors and using them. As you grow in experience, you can then try different ones and find the pair that suit you.” But when it comes to precision cutting, Melissa loves a 5 inch pointed scissor with offset thumbs. “The offset position helps prevent repetitive injuries,” she says.

Jack of All Blades

It’s always best to have a few pairs in your kitbag – and spares – as without your scissors, you can’t do your job. “It’s essential to have cutting scissors and thinning scissors in your kitbag,” highlights Jake. But it’s equally important to have a back-up. “Having a spare pair of your everyday scissors in your kitbag is crucial in case you drop them, or they get misplaced,” says Marcello. “Nobody wants to be turning away clients.”

And when it comes to achieving different hairstyles, the type of scissors used can make a big difference, which is why Robert Kirby has six pairs in his kitbag. “I have a pair for different techniques including scissor-over-comb, precision cutting, textured hair, and curly hair.” So having a few different pairs with varying blade lengths can help you achieve different styles with ease. “You can switch up your cutting technique as needed to achieve the look you want,” says Tori.

LAURA KULIK & RIA KULIK

AND WHEN IT COMES TO ACHIEVING DIFFERENT HAIRSTYLES, THE TYPE OF SCISSORS USED CAN MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE

Shear Sign

So just how do you know when to replace your scissors? “When they start to bend the hair as you cut, or when it takes a couple of cuts to create a clean line,” explains Melissa. But to help prevent this, maintenance is key. “I get them sharpened about three times a year and use oil to keep them cutting smoothly,” Melissa adds. Checking the tension daily to ensure that the blades are properly aligned and cut smoothly is another way of maintaining your scissors. “If you notice the tension is off, you can easily adjust it using the screw on the scissors,” says Tori. But because hair accumulates between the blades, it can often lead to damage. Which is why it’s a good idea to clean your scissors regularly to remove debris and keep them protected. “Storing them in a kit roll will help to prevent abrasion and damage to the blades,” adds Tori.

Ultimately, buying a pair of scissors is very personal and each pair is different. But as Robert Kirby says, “Once you hold them, you just know if they’re right for you.”

MY FIRST PAIR

“I loved my first pair of scissors – Iwas so proud of them and couldn’t get over that you cut with your ring finger, not the middle finger!”

Melissa Timperley, Salon Owner, Melissa Timperley Salons

“My boss gifted me my very first pair of professional scissors, which quickly became an extension of me as a hairdresser. Initially, I was hesitant to use them, fearing I may damage such a precious gift. However, as I started to work with them, I realised the tool’s power. I could bring my vision and my client’s vision to life, transform their appearance, and change how they felt about themselves.”

Daniele de Angelis, International Art Director,TONI&GUY

“My first pair of scissors were black Jaguars with silver swirls on them. When I was at college, they didn’t really teach me how to hold them apart from repeating the hand movement. But as I carried on my training, I went on a lot of cutting courses including one with Paul Falltrick who really showed me the world of cutting, how to angle my scissors, and how it makes a difference to your cutting.”

Ria Kulik, North Western Hairdresser of the Year,Salon Owner The HairBank

“My first pair of scissors were just like a bike with training wheels. They were the ones given to everyone who was training.They weren’t personal and I felt embarrassed to use them at times. For my second pair, I took the time to research and really look into the style I wanted. I still have them now, and I feel like I always will.”

Tori Stewart, Creative Director at Leaf Scissors