THE GREAT BRUSH UP

From cleaning your tools, to what the experts really have in their kit bags, this is your 360° guide to the latest in brushes

MAINTENANCE 101

Clients will expect a level of quality from a salon experience - and if they can see visible damage and deterioration of your tools, this will not instill confidence. So, it's time to brush up your act.

KENT BRUSHES

Cleaning your brushes doesn’t have to be a complicated chore. Casey Coleman for Kent Salon explains: “I generally wash them once every few weeks. I start by removing all of the hair, then let them soak for an hour before getting a toothbrush and some soap and giving them a good scrub.”

Meanwhile, Josh Woodman makes a conscious effort to avoid damaging brushes with heat. “I’ve never been in the habit of placing my hairdryer directly on top of the bristles of my brushes, and I personally think that’s why I’ve had some of my brushes for years.” He explains that it comes down to how much you look after them and the quality of the brush to begin with. “Plus, you can even buy replacement bristles for some brushes, like the Denman D3,” he adds.

STAR STYLER

We spoke to the industr y experts on their preferred multi-purpose products…

If you’re looking for movement and body or sleek strands, on any length hair, then Romain Salvaggio, Ambassador and Expert for Olivia Garden EU, shares his thoughts, noting: “If I had to choose one brush, I would go for an Olivia Garden Ceramic Ion Speed XL 25. To me it’s the perfect tool to blow dry both long and short hair, and it can be used to create soft waves or a smooth blowout.”

As a session stylist it's essential to have a few key brushes to hand. Christopher Laird, a member of the ghd pro team, says that he likes to carry natural bristle brushes in multiple sizes, along with ceramic radials and a mini paddle brush. However, when it comes to his ultimate multitasker, he says:“It would have to be my ghd oval dressing brush because you can use it for everything. I like to use it for padding and backcombing, as well as dressing out.You can also slick hair back with it, and if you’re doing a snatched ponytail, it’s great for defining and polishing. By contrast, you can also get the hair fluffy and big with it; it’s easily my most versatile brush.”

Denman Ambassador and HJ's Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards, Sharon Malcom, shares her favourite: “The Denman D3 can be used on short hair to any length of bob – right down to shoulder length. It’s a great all-rounder. For long hair I use the Denman D83 Paddle Brush, it’s perfect for both brushing and blow drying.”

KS02 VENT BRUSH

Casey, who won Social Stylist of the Year at the British Hairdressing Business Awards 2022, adds:“I love a vent brush. I don’t think I could do my job without one. I use it to detangle, rough dry, wrap dry, blow dry and even to brush out waves at the end of the service. The Kent Salon KS02 Vent is great for all of the above.”

SMOOTH OPERATOR

Not all brushes are made equal, and not all brushes are designed for ever y hair type. Here’s an over view on the best brushes for each of your client’s needs…

Natural bristles often aren’t able to withstand high temperatures. Anna Chiesa, Founder of The Balance Brush, explains: “You’ll see a lot of blow dry brushes with a mixed ratio of natural to artificial bristles, as the former are supported by the latter. The Balance Brush actually features high-heat-tolerant nylon bristles, which can cope with hotter temperatures without melting over time.” She adds that when it comes to brushing, then a natural bristle brush is the way to go – especially if you’re detangling – as they can distribute oils and remove product build up gently without risking any damage.

The age old question which puzzles many clients: should you brush hair when wet or dry? Well, Sarah Brawley, Owner of BLOWStudio, Manchester, settles the debate once and for all, explaining that it doesn’t matter – as long as the right brush is used. She recommends The Knot Dr. Pro Brush, as it’s gentle on the hair (of course, you still need to avoid being heavy-handed) and removes tangles in no time.

Hair Colourist Gareth Williams agrees, noting that brushing your hair when wet is only likely to cause damage if you are using a traditional brush. He says: “If you’re mindful and use a brush which respects the integrity of the hair fibre, like Manta, then you should be absolutely fine. Manta is safe to use on all hair types but it’s especially good for curly or coily hair because of the technology within the brush that means if it comes into contact with any resistance, the bristles will not force their way through and allows you to instead gently tease out any knots, drastically reducing breakage.”

Whether your client wears extensions or not also plays a big role in the brushes they should be using. For example, Great Lengths’ Double Bristle Brushes are per fect for extension maintenance as they allow clients to brush directly over their bonds or tapes without pulling the hair, causing tension or any discomfort.

BRUSH HACK

UK Ambassador for Olivia Garden, @amber_does_mermaid_hair, shares:

AMBER

“DID YOU KNOW THAT ALMOST ALL OLIVIA GARDEN BRUSHES COME WITH A SECTIONING TOOL ON THE END OF THE BRUSH THAT CAN BE HIDDEN IN THE BRUSH WHEN NOT IN USE? THESE ARE FANTASTIC TOOLS FOR EASY AND FAST SECTIONING.”

STROKE OF GENIUS

While it may seem simple to us, your clients may not be clued up in the best brushes to use in their at-home haircare routines – so educating them is a great way to help them improve their hair health.

Thankfully, some brushes can do a little of everything. The Tangle Angel POP-UP is per fect to use on all hair types, is great for use in the shower, on both wet hair and dry hair, and is heat resistant to 120°C.

And, if your clients love to style with hot tools, why not introduce them to Head Jog’s Curve Brush Set? Available from Hair Tools, these brushes feature Heat Wave Technology, which causes the barrel of the brush to turn yellow when too much heat is being applied, which can help indicate when unnecessary damage is taking place.

Scalp brushes are another great option for clients to use on wet hair in the shower, and can serve more than one function; Maria Nila’s new Scalp Brush helps to distribute products, exfoliates the scalp, and encourages stimulation, which is linked to hair growth. This not only makes it great for soothing backwash sessions, but is ideal for those clients who have their sights set on longer hair.

TOP TIP

HEALTHY HAIR STARTS AT HOME -SO MAKE SURE YOU ARE GUIDING CLIENTS ON WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A GOOD BRUSH, ASIDE FROM QUALITY MATERIALS. ANNA CHIESA, FOUNDER OF THE BALANCE BRUSH, EXPLAINS:

“ THE WEIGHT OF A BRUSH SHOULD BE BALANCED FOR A COMFORTABLE BLOW DRY EXPERIENCE, AND THE HANDLE SHAPE SHOULD ALSO BE CONSIDERED -NOTHING THAT IS TOO THIN OR NARROW -ADVISE YOUR CLIENTS TO LOOK FOR A NICE HOURGLASS SHAPE THAT WILL FIT COMFORTABLY IN THE HAND. ALSO TELL THEM TO ‘LISTEN’ TO THE BRUSH -AGOOD, SOLID, WELL-MADE BRUSH WILL NOT SOUND HOLLOW OR FEEL FLIMSY TO THE TOUCH.”