HJ Guest Editor
Inside The Mind
Efi Davies talks us through the processes she goes through when working on an Avant Garde collection
For me, storytelling in avant garde hair isn’t something that’s explained, it’s something that’s felt. When the models are live on stage, I think about taking the audience on a journey rather than presenting a finished idea. It’s important that the audience connects to the process, not just the final image, to understand that creativity is built, questioned, and shaped in real time. That’s where the story really lives.
Where does a collection begin for you?
My work usually starts with technique and curiosity -exploring something unfamiliar or pushing a technical idea further. As the technique develops, shape and emotion begin to surface, and a story naturally forms, with curiosity and a need to challenge myself. I see each collection as a journey, whether it’s experienced on stage or through an image, allowing people to connect with the process as much as the final result.
When creating an avant garde hair collection, what comes first?
For me, everything begins with technique, or a picture I created in my head and then the journey starts. The technique leads to shape, the shape creates texture, and movement appears naturally as the work evolves. I don’t like to force an order creatively, I let the technique guide the outcome. If the foundation is strong, everything else follows organically each stage to inform the next. The process can start months in advance, but it’s never fixed. I might live with an idea for a long time, revisiting it again and again. Once the technical direction feels right, I create an image in my head and I start bringing the team together.
How much of the final image happens on the day of the shoot?
With avant garde, preparation is key. All the pieces will be pre-prepared and placed on the day. There’s a strong framework in place, but I always leave space for instinct. Some of the most exciting moments happen on the day – when the hair responds differently, or when the energy in the room shifts. I trust the team and the process enough to allow the work to evolve in real time.
How have your concepts changed over time?
They’ve definitely become more ambitious, but also more considered. Earlier in my career, I wanted to say everything at once. Now, I’m more interested in depth than excess, pushing myself technically while being very clear about intention and feeling.
What technical challenges excite you the most?
When something feels impossible, that’s usually where the learning is. I don’t see limitations as barriers, they’re invitations to think differently and find new solutions and techniques.
How do you feel when starting a new collection?
It’s a mix of both. There’s always a healthy pressure, a responsibility to create something new, not to repeat myself. But that pressure is positive. it keeps me curious and focused. Fear usually means I’m heading somewhere worthwhile.
How do you think your work has evolved over the years?
I think it’s become more honest. I trust my instincts more now, and I’m less concerned with trends or expectations. My work feels closer to who I am; technically, creatively, and emotionally.
What do people often misunderstand about avant garde hair?
That it’s just about shock or decoration. In reality, it’s deeply technical and incredibly disciplined. Avant garde hair requires precision, patience, and respect for structure – it’s not chaos, even when it looks free!
What part of the creative process still excites you the most?
Learning. That moment when a technique finally works, when an idea elevates the whole project. I hope my work encourages others to go further than me and inspires them to push their own creative boundaries. There are so many incredibly talented hairdressers out there – and that’s when creativity really moves forward.