Rooting for RESULTS
With hair and scalp concerns being more prevalent than ever, we spoke to a team of experts who offer advice on how you can serve your client's hair woes in a practical and ethical manner
AVEDA
The subject of hair loss and scalp care has become a hot topic recently due to the skinification boom that emerged during the 2020 global pandemic. Since then, consumers have adopted a holistic approach to both skincare and haircare and are now more aware than ever of the challenges that can arise with both skin and hair.
Simultaneously, we’re seeing a rise in scalp issues and hair loss, which has been attributed to several factors, including an increase in stress-related hair loss caused by modern life, and even newly emerging factors such as GLP-1-related shedding. So, we caught up with some experts made up of salon owners, trichologists, and brand owners who shared their thoughts on how hairdressers can confidently support clients experiencing scalp concerns. We also explore how salons can integrate scalp consultations and treatments into their services and treatment menus.
Rooting for Clients
An estimated 15.4 million people in the UK are currently experiencing hair loss, according to the NHS and other health industry organisations*. Chances are you've witnessed this firsthand. For many clients, the salon chair is where the conversation begins; where they finally feel safe enough to say something. It's a reality that Trichologist Deborah Maguire and hairdresser Katie Hemming know well. The pair launched Seed & Soul, a hair and scalp health clinic in the Cotswolds, in direct response to what they were seeing in practice. "Over the past few years, hair professionals and trichologists have noticed a significant rise in people seeking help for hair loss," says Deborah. "It is appearing earlier, affecting more people than ever before, and many people feel they can no longer ignore it."
Unlike other hair challenges, though, hair loss has the added layer of being emotionally distressing for clients, especially considering it can be caused by health conditions, hormonal changes, stress, or severe hair damage. For Susannah Richardson, of Butchers, Chester, supporting clients through hair loss and scalp issues is about cultivating a place of calm and reassurance. She says: “Hairdressers can support clients best by creating a calm, informed and non-judgemental consultation space where concerns can be discussed openly. Often, a client’s first worry is emotional as much as physical, so the salon experience should offer reassurance as well as expertise. A good hairdresser will observe, ask the right questions and guide the client with sensitivity, while recognising when a scalp or hair concern may need further professional advice.”
Lloyd Court, Creative Director at Seahanna Salons, Wimbledon, agrees, adding that hairdressers should be as transparent as possible if they don’t have all the answers to their clients' hair concerns. “If you are a hairdresser, don’t stress about not knowing the answer; compassion and care are ultimately the strongest powers in the situation.”
PHILIP KINGSLEY
The Mane Issue
Like most trends, it’s hard to decipher whether it’s anecdotal or, in fact, real. You’ve likely seen an increase in clients coming to you with worries about hair loss or inflamed scalps, and you may have even spoken to fellow stylists who make similar observations. But is there data to support the theory?
Trend analysis platforms like Google Trends state that there has been a steady increase in searches for hair loss. The reasons for this are multifaceted. Researchers point to lifestyle factors, environmental factors, as well as the role of medical conditions. Also, perhaps PHILIP KINGSLEY unsurprisingly, due to the advent of social media platforms like TikTok, Facebook and Instagram, the discourse on hair loss and scalp issues continues to thrive in online spaces, although this can present challenges as advice is typically dispensed from everyday people leaving space for misinformation.
“Awareness surrounding scalp health and hair concerns has undoubtedly grown through social media”, agrees Anabel Kingsley, Trichologist at Philip Kingsley. “We see this via the rise in conversations in social listening data and from sales trend data. There is, however, a lack of education and a lot of misinformation surrounding how to treat certain concerns, especially when it comes to hair loss. It’s important to understand hair concerns are rarely one-size-fits-all. Stress, illness, nutritional deficiencies, hormonal fluctuations, medications, menopause, weight loss drugs can all impact the hair growth cycle.”
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Hair to Help
One element of the discourse on hair loss and scalp care that came up consistently amongst our experts is the issue of boundaries. The general consensus is that support should be offered, yes, but stylists should be reticent to offer any type of diagnosis as to the cause of a client’s hair loss. “It’s important for professionals to work within their boundaries and, where appropriate, encourage clients to seek advice from their GP or healthcare professional”, explains Jerome Wilson, Global Head of Education, GLOWWA. Lucy Palmer, Founder of Hair Gain, agrees, stating: “It’s important that hairdressers stay within their professional boundaries. They can observe visible changes, support the client with hair and scalp care, and recommend suitable products, but they should not diagnose medical causes or hair loss.”
As easy as this sounds, it can be challenging to adhere to these boundaries. Empathy is a common trait shared by hairdressers, and it’s natural to want to holistically ‘fix’ a client and have them leave the salon doors feeling totally transformed and renewed. However, our experts are keen to let you know that having professional boundaries doesn’t mean you can’t still be supportive. “Listen, empathise and refer to a specialist,” advises Anneliese Hesse, Humankind Hair. “Another thing that hairdressers absolutely can do is advise on styles, colours and cuts to help clients feel good about themselves – to maximise the appearance or density, or hide a more visible scalp.”
“Focus on what you can objectively observe,” suggests Anabel. “For example, you might say, ‘I’ve noticed your hair appears less dense than it was previously’. Open and honest communication is key.”
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Start at The Scalp
But while offering medical advice is considered a no-no among experts, offering scalp-related services such as scalp analysis is something that is encouraged by experts. It’s an element of the salon experience that can foster trust among clients. Siobhan Haug, Ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional, says: “Adding scalp analysis into the consultation instantly makes the appointment feel more considered and personal. It's an opportunity to really understand what's happening with the client's scalp before recommending treatments or homecare.”
Mark Blake, Trichologist for NIOXIN, agrees, offering: “Incorporating scalp analysis into consultations is the best way for a client to actually see what the problem is, and realise they need to do something to help keep their hair and scalp in good condition. Monitoring their scalp and taking photos each time they visit gets the client on board, especially as you can then show them each time the changes in their hair density and scalp health.”
Rob Wood, founder of Novo Cabelo, says that there is an extra level of trust that emerges when salons incorporate consultations as a service, stating: “A detailed consultation builds trust because the client can see that the recommendation is personal to them. It also allows the salon to create a longer-term plan, rather than treating the appointment as a one-off conversation.”
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Healthy Scalp, Happy Hair
In addition to scalp analysis, salons should be encouraged to incorporate scalp treatments into their list of services, not only to provide an expansive and holistic list of services to customers but also to maximise retail opportunities. Susannah Richardson believes that offering treatment plans will help to enhance customer retention through long-term care journeys. “Salons can offer targeted scalp treatments depending on the client’s needs, whether that is soothing, balancing, exfoliating or hydrating care,” she says. “Retail should support the in-salon service with products that are easy to maintain at home, so the client feels their progress is being supported.”
Katie Fielder, National Sales Manager for Takara Belmont, adds that the steep rise in hair loss and scalp issues has led to a demand for scalp care services. “Hair loss in women can be successfully managed and even prevented,” she says. “As a world-leading equipment brand, Takara Belmont’s Spa Mist II processor and Original Japanese Head Spa are transforming scalp and haircare services with scientifically-proven results.”
So, while there are limitations in terms of the services hairstylists can offer to clients who are suffering from hair loss or scalp issues, there are several treatments and services available that can be offered to help restore the client's hair health. As we have learned, communication, trust and transparency are key, so let’s keep the conversation going.
*Statistic sourced from harleystreet.co.uk
THE BEST HAIR THICKENING & SCALP CARE PRODUCTS
OSMO Scalp Therapy Detoxifying Shampoo, RRP: £11.95
A deep clarifying cleanser designed to effectively remove product build-up and impurities whilst retaining the hair's natural oils and moisture. Infused with invigorating rosemary and tea tree extracts, Detoxify Shampoo not only cleanses but also hydrates and soothes, helping to promote a balanced, healthy scalp environment.
iQ Scalp Balance Shampoo and Conditioner RRP: £13.99
iQ Scalp Balance Shampoo gently cleanses and rebalances hair, removing build-up and excess oil, leaving hair clean and light, with a healthy-feeling scalp. Use with iQ Scalp Balance Conditioner to hydrate and soothe the scalp while softening hair – leaving it manageable and fresh.
JOICO, Scalp Vitality Refreshing Shampoo, RRP: £24.60
Inspired by the latest in skincare, the Scalp Vitality range features clinically tested formulas that preserve the scalp barrier’s delicate balance, ensuring optimal scalp and hair health. Vitality Refreshing Shampoo leaves your scalp feeling replenished and calm as it cleanses with a rich lather and a cool, refreshing sensation.
Philip Kingsley Preserving Scalp Drops, RRP: £55
The Density Preserving Scalp Drops for Hair Loss is designed to help maintain follicle condition and protect hair density and quality over time (when used for three months continuously), thanks to an innovative, clinically-tested anti-hair loss active. The drops also improve hair condition, reduce scalp visibility and are suitable for sensitive scalps.
Nioxin Hair Fall Defense Serum RRP: £57.50
Hair Fall Defense Serum is a leave-in thinning hair treatment. Designed for daily use, this serum helps increase hair fullness with visible results in over eight weeks, while thickening hair from the very first use.
Aveda Scalp Solutions Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, RRP: £39
Instantly remove oil, product build-up and surface pollution with the help of Aveda Scalp Solutions Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, that provides a cooling sensation. This liquid gel exfoliant is safe for coloured and chemically processed hair. Formulated with 96% naturally derived ingredients, this scalp treatment contains wintergreen derived salicylic acid and glucosamine derived from fermentation.
EXO-GROW Hair Tonic RRP: £50
Meet the next generation of hair regeneration. EXO-GROW™️ Hair Tonic combines patented immune-tolerant exosome technology with peptides, amino acids and polynucleotides to support scalp health, promote visibly thicker, fuller-looking hair and optimise the environment for healthier hair growth.
Authentic Beauty Concept Amplify Root-Lift Spray Conditioner RRP: £35.45
Authentic Beauty Concept Amplify Root-Lift Spray Conditioner is a lightweight, leave-in that moisturises and detangles fine hair daily. Infused with Matcha Extract, Caffeine and Eucalyptus Extract, the formula provides instant heat protection up to 230°C as well as root-lift when targeted to the root area.