Colour Notes

Charlie Illi shares why she’s a colour chameleon and the challenges of realistic colour expectations

What do you love about being a colourist?

I love the playground I have, using different techniques and applying them to my vision. The technical mixology allows endless creativity.

What is the most important question you ask in a colour consultation?

Ask how the colour should make them feel, how they want to identify when they look in the mirror and how they style their hair. I can judge vibrancy, style, lightness and depth this way.

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

I generally don’t believe a colour can be out of fashion. Fashion is an inspiration for us creatives that we can alter and use. However, I am glad to see that as colourists we are more aware of harsh chemicals and make better decisions in prioritising healthy hair.

Are there any colour trends you’d like to bring back?

MOLTEN METALS

I would love to bring back more solid blondes, that are committed to a colour-based formula rather than bleach.

What are the challenges facing colourists right now?

Fitting colour services into a time frame and fee that is realistic. We want our clients to be happy and reach their hair goals. We forget we have a comb, not a wand.

What do you think will be the next big colour trend?

Mass tones that have an interesting saturation, so it looks different depending on lighting. This, combined with targeted placements of colour.

What colour techniques are you known for?

I would describe myself as a colour chameleon. One technique I am very successful at is bleaching shapes and colour blocking. I love the level of detail within precisions, the beautiful blend created in a balayage and the freedom of colour in creative work.

What colour creation makes you most proud?

Clean results that don’t need a toner make me most proud. It shows discipline. My recent L’Oréal Colour Trophy entry is a great example of this.

SHAPE OF YOU

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?

Be curious. If you are working with colourists, question them – let them explain their thought process and techniques will start to make sense. Protect your hands and have structure in your workspace.

What is the biggest lesson you’ve learnt?

Every colour service I do I can’t skip the consultation. Having a journey planned and building trust is so important and it is unfortunately where things can go wrong if this isn’t present.

ARTISTIC EYE